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Frederieke Van Doorn, the founder of Frey., a women’s workwear brand, says most men’s tailored suits in Hong Kong are glued together and can come apart when it rains. Frey aims to do better for women.

Most men’s tailored Hong Kong suits are glued together, claims women’s workwear brand founder

  • The Dutch founder of women’s workwear brand Frey, Frederieke van Doorn, isn’t impressed by Hong Kong men’s suit makers and says her label will do better
  • Frey will launch an app for measuring fit for both tailored and off-the-rack garments, and she says ‘From everything I’ve seen, this is the easiest one to use’
Sian Powell

Originally from the Netherlands, Frederieke van Doorn has worked in high-end fashion in Europe and Asia for many years. She has now launched a women’s workwear brand, Frey, at a new store in Hong Kong’s Central district, which opened with a ready-to-wear collection in September.

The brand’s “Create Your Own” tailored clothing will be available in December, as well as a specialist app for accurate measurements for both bespoke and off-the-rack clothing.

What inspired your new brand, Frey?

Frederieke van Doorn: “The quality of women’s clothing in Hong Kong is very, very low. I come from high-end men’s tailoring and I’ve now implemented that quality in women’s workwear. The tailors who make suits for men in Hong Kong – that’s not the quality level I’m doing.

Looks from Hong Kong-based women’s label Frey

“Most suits here are glued together, and if there’s a little bit of rain, then you have to throw it away. I’ve always done half canvas, full canvas [suit linings]. There’s a little bit of fusing, but not a lot.”

Is production experience important to ensure the best manufacture of high-end fashion?

“I studied at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute and then started in the tailoring business in Europe in 2002. In 2007, I moved to China, where I worked in fashion, and three years ago to Hong Kong. We use a manufacturer in Zhejiang province. I only work with people I have long-term relationships with. They know my product, they know my standards, I walk in the factory, I know them. I talk to the pattern-maker, I talk to the technicians. I quality control.”

Frey will soon offer “Create Your Own” bespoke clothes and use an app, Tailie, for measuring the fit for both tailored and off-the-rack garments. How accurate is the app?

“The biggest problem for online shopping around the world is returns, and 60 to 70 per cent of returns are because of wrong sizing. This app will link you to the best size in the webstore. I’ve come across a lot of these apps, they are usually more complicated. From everything I’ve seen, this is the easiest one to use.”

Frederieke Van Doorn, the founder of Frey.

How will the app work to improve the fit of clothes?

“You will be able to download the Tailie app to your phone from a link on the Frey website, and there will be step-by-step instructions to walk you through it. You use your own phone to click two photos of you in tight clothes – from the side and the back – against a white wall, and we will get a size passport with accurate measurements.

“A Dutch company developed the app, we invested in it, and it’s now being used by three or four other companies in Europe.”

More looks from Hong Kong-based women’s label Frey.

Why did you recruit fashion designer Yulia Tlili, who taught at the Savannah College of Art and Design in Hong Kong, to work on the Frey brand?

“I have ideas and I needed someone who could put them on paper and realise them. We had a meeting and I asked her to make the first Frey collection. What I really like, why we really connected, is because she’s a designer but she also thinks about production, she also thinks, ‘We need to make it.’

“I’ve worked with a lot of designers. Their work, it looks pretty, but it’s hard to realise.”

Looks from Frey. The label uses only natural materials, and buttons made from shell or nut, not plastic.

How would you describe the current Frey collection?

Yulia Tlili: “We try to be on the right journey and make the right choices. We use buttons made from shell or nut, not plastic. We don’t use polyester. No polyester blends, because it’s very difficult to take it apart. We use only natural materials, like wool and linen, or semi-natural like viscose. Even the suit bags are made from corn; they can be dissolved in water.

“We wanted to make the collection accessible to white-collar women. You don’t have to buy a beautiful suit from Celine, break the bank and not eat for six months. The pricing is about HK$3,000 (US$390) for a jacket – 100 per cent wool, as sustainably and beautifully made as it can be. It’s all hand-finished.”

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