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‘Return of elegance and glamour’: polished, empowering fashion pieces inspired by Truman Capote’s ‘swans’ define 2022/23 autumn/winter couture show season

  • A clique of powerful post-World-War-II women ‘collected’ by author Capote lived for and held sway over fashion and style at couture houses such as Balenciaga
  • These ‘swans’ – ‘calm above water, paddling furiously beneath’ – inspire its creative director and rivals at other houses, and a Ryan Murphy TV series

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Lee Radziwill and Jackie Onassis at the Alvin Theatre in New York.  City, New York (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Annie Brown

The Balenciaga autumn/winter 2022/23 haute couture show held in Cristóbal Balenciaga’s original salon in Paris in July gave a nod to a particularly glamorous era.

Creative director Demna Gvasalia took the shapes and silhouettes Balenciaga was best known for in his mid-20th century heyday and made them relevant for today’s couture client.

This beautiful and sometimes discombobulating collection would certainly have pleased author Truman Capote’s “swans”: the post-World War II society women who frequented Balenciaga’s shows and sometimes bought out the entire collection.

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A glamorous and an immaculately honed personal style – in everything from outfits to napkins – was this clique’s raison d’être.

Bella Hadid in a look from the Balenciaga autumn/winter 2022 show in Paris.
Bella Hadid in a look from the Balenciaga autumn/winter 2022 show in Paris.

The ultimate ladies who lunched, the swans included:

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Lee Radziwill, eternal style icon and sister to Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis;

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