Pop stars: taste test on 3 organic champagnes from Drappier

Champagne is a region of France dominated by famous brands such as Moët & Chandon, Perrier-Jouët and Veuve Clicquot. The name Drappier may not be on your radar. The eighth-generation family firm was established in 1808 and has carved out a unique niche. It is smaller than its competitors, with a production of about 1.5 million bottles. It lacks the marketing budget of the large champagne houses, but Drappier wines speak for themselves in style, elegance and quality. The house specialises in pinot noir and its wines are often rich in red fruit and generous in body.

The classic champagne blend is made from three grape varieties: chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier. What is little known is that seven varieties are permitted under the appellation system. Drappier grows all seven, including blanc vrai (pinot blanc), petit meslier, arbane and fromenteau (pinot gris). These four "forgotten" varieties make up the blend of one of its wines, Quattuor Cuvée.

Most producers strive for lower yields to make high-quality wine. The premise is that lower yielding vines produce more concentrated berries, which add complexity and give ageing potential to the wines. Champagne tends to be an exception, as grape yields are typically high. Drappier, however, says dismissively that it does not care about volume. The vineyards are farmed sustainably, based on organic principles, and only organic composts are used. Minimal sulphur levels are used in the cellar.

Carte d'Or embodies Drappier's house style and is its entry-level wine. On its first release, in 1952, the notes of quince jelly were widely noted. The house decided to make its label orange, to signify the colour of quince.

Made from the classic blend of 80 per cent pinot noir, 15 per cent chardonnay and 5 per cent pinot meunier.