Wine tasting: Domaine Rapet keeping Burgundy prices real
Sarah Wong samples three contrasting Burgundy whites from the estate of one of the oldest winemaking families in the region
After a few years of small harvests, demand for wines from Burgundy, in France, has outstripped supply, pushing prices to stratospheric heights. There are, however, still some quality wines from the region that offer value. One commune worth a look at is Pernand-Vergelesses, located between the hill of Corton and the eastern slope of the Côte d'Or. The appellation comprises 138 hectares, 57 of which are dedicated to premier cru, across eight vineyards. There are also three grand cru vineyards, namely those of Corton, Corton-Charlemagne and Charlemagne.
Pernand-Vergelesses is best known for its white wines, which are characterised by their minerally, stony character. Red wines, depending on location and vintage, may not reach optimum ripeness and may be a little austere, with high acidity and hard tannins.
Domaine Rapet is named after one of the oldest winemaking families in Burgundy, one that can be traced back to 1765. The house's current stewards are Vincent Rapet and his wife, Sylvette. Located between the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune, the domaine has 20 hectares of vineyards based around the villages of Pernand-Vergelesses, Savigny Lès Beaune, Aloxe-Corton and Beaune.
The Rapets' wines are known for their understated and restrained character. White wine grapes are fermented in barrels that are 30 per cent new oak. Wines undergo further ageing for 12 months before bottling.
Burgundy is notorious for its variable vintages, producing wines ranging from the sublime to the downright thin and disappointing. The year 2012 was no exception. The first six months were disastrous, as the region underwent severe hailstorms, decimating yields. The situation had improved by July, however, with warm, sunny weather, allowing grapes to reach optimum maturity. Master of wine Clive Coates writes, "Quality wise, 2012 has turned out, not merely 'all right' but really very good indeed, if not perhaps even very fine … The whites are fine, too. A vintage for the long term but a pretty good one."
