There's more to Grosset wines than great Australian riesling
Sarah Wong
Riesling is a celebrated grape, much beloved of wine writers. But Jeff Grosset, Australia's "king of riesling", believes drinkers overanalyse the grape, forgetting the most important thing: the taste. He believes drinkers should "talk about the flavours - the lime, the floral. Do not talk about the steely backbone - it is overdone".
Grosset Wines is located in the Clare Valley, 100km from Adelaide. The vineyard has just celebrated its 40th vintage and, in addition to riesling, Grosset also makes top-quality chardonnay and pinot noir.
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The owner's personality mirrors the style of wines he makes. Wine writer Andrew Jefford says, "Don't expect any wine with the name Grosset on the label to posture, shout or stamp. It will be focused, precise and pristine. Its conversation with you will be quiet but intense. It won't fade quickly, but endure."
Along with Grosset's Polish Hill, Springvale has bought Clare Valley riesling and its quality potential to global attention. The Springvale vineyard character is derived from its unique site, 460 metres above sea level. The soil - red loam over limestone - helps protect the fruit from water stress. The underlying shale adds mineral notes to the wine.