Three South African red wines that will be even better with age
Full-bodied vintages from three Stellenbosch vineyards share similar characteristics and will age for between five and 20 years
South Africa might have been producing wine since the 17th century, but its vintages remain unknown to many oenophiles.
“The wines possess history, ageability and consistency,” says Betsy Haynes, managing director of Northeast Wines. If you’re not convinced, try these wines from Stellenbosch, one of South Africa’s oldest wine regions. Although they can be drunk while young, they all possess the potential to improve with age.
Hartenberg Estate Gravel Hill Shiraz 2008
Since the establishment of the vineyard in 1692, Hartenberg has had an array of colourful owners, including an elephant hunter, a former accountant with the Dutch East India Company, a freed slave, and a pathologist. It was one of the first to separately vinify grapes from specific vineyard sites. Gravel Hill was recognised for wines with unique character thanks to the high iron content of the soil. The wines are aged for 18 months in 100 per cent new French Allier oak, and production is limited to 550 bottles.
Rich, succulent black fruit with touches of spicy vanilla. Concentrated and opulent, with soft acids framed by fine, well-integrated tannins. Drinking well with the potential to age for a decade. HK$575
Kanonkop Estate Paul Sauer 2012
Made from a blend of 70 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 18 per cent cabernet franc and 12 per cent merlot, the wine is aged for 24 months in new French Nevers oak. Currently managed by fourth-generation family owners Paul and Johann Krige, Kanonkop is named for a cannon on top of a kopje (hillock), which was fired in the 17th century to notify farmers that sailing ships on the trade route between Europe and Asia were entering Table Bay.
Ripe blackcurrant, licorice, spice. Full bodied, with a core of ripe black fruit, ripe tannins and balanced acidity. Finishing very long. Still youthful and will age for a further two decades. HK$321
Meerlust Estate Rubicon 2012
Founded in 1693, Meerlust’s owner, Hannes Myburgh, is the eighth generation of his family to run the business.
Rubicon is the company’s flagship red wine and the result of an epiphany Myburgh’s father, Nico, had while visiting Bordeaux. He realised the terroir there was similar to that of the Eerste River Valley. After a few years of experimentation, in 1980 he released a blended wine named Rubicon to indicate there would be no turning back (a reference to Julius Caesar’s decision to lead his soldiers across the River Rubicon to invade Rome, in 49BC). Hannes Myburgh describes its launch as a “benchmark moment” for South African reds.
“Before, blending was unknown and only 100 per cent cabernet sauvignon was made. [Rubicon is] like perfume and assembled from fruit from 11 vineyards,” he says.
Rubicon is made only in years when fruit quality is at its best, and the blend varies from one vintage to another. Rubicon 2012 was made from 63 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 18 per cent merlot, 14 per cent cabernet franc and 5 per cent petit verdot, and aged in 65 per cent new French Nevers oak.
Fairly restrained nose of black fruit, mint, spices. Full bodied on the palate with round black fruit, fine tannins, crisp acidity and a very long finish. Drinking well now but will benefit from ageing for another five years or more. HK$294
The wines are available from winenthingshk.com
