The Corkscrew | Armagnac vs cognac: more different than you think

The French, always up for a good argument, vigorously debate over which is their preferred after-dinner drop – cognac or Armagnac.

Both are, of course, French, and both are named for the region in which they are made. The difference in how they are produced, though, is vast.

Cognac is made mainly from the ugni blanc grape. More diverse, Armagnac, in addition to ugni blanc, also contains folle blanche (a rare variety, most of the vines having been lost to the phylloxera blight of the late 1800s), colombard and baco (also spelled bacco). The latter grape is a hybrid of American noah and folle blanche, and some innovative vignerons are experimenting with it in an attempt to revitalise the remaining folle blanche vines.

Armagnac is aged in wood – Monlezun black oak, which is found only in the forests of Gascony – and is distilled just once, to about 52 per cent alcohol by volume (ABV). It is not diluted with water prior to bottling, as is cognac, which is twice-distilled and about 70 per cent ABV in the bottle.

Produced by small growers and distillers, Armagnac is quirkier than cognac, which is dominated by big brands. It is also reputed to be Europe’s oldest spirit, with records of its production dating from the 1500s. Because less is made, Armagnac is not so well known as cognac outside France and you get more bang for your buck – there are some terrific bargains to be found.