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Bartender Michito Kaneko talks the award-winning walk

The World Class Global Bartender of the Year 2015, who was in Hong Kong recently for a guest stint at Zuma, in Central, reveals how he found the career he loves – after a few false starts

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Michito Kaneko at Zuma, in Central. Picture: Jonathan Wong
Bernice Chanin Vancouver

Describe your childhood. “My parents are ceramic artists. They don’t just make plates but also wall art. I grew up on a mountainside in Nara, Japan, where they have a studio. They didn’t expect me to go into ceramics; they said I should do what I like. But the environment I grew up in forced me to think about art, creativity. I like drawing and thought about going to art school. I applied, but didn’t pass the exam. These days, when I think about new drinks, I like to draw them.

“At 18, I decided to go to culinary school because I like cooking. I went to the only culinary school in Nara. Then I went to work in a restaurant but quit soon after because it was much harder work than I expected; cooking for myself was not the same as cooking in a restaurant, and there is a hierarchy in the kitchen I found hard to accept. After that I did construction work for two years.”

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El Julio, by Michito Kaneko, served with crispy fried squid at Zuma.
El Julio, by Michito Kaneko, served with crispy fried squid at Zuma.

How did you get into bartending? “A former schoolmate had a bar and every day after work I worked there part time. That’s where I fell in love with cocktails – both drinking and making them. Then I heard about a famous bartender in Nara and I went to take a look. The bar is classic looking, the staff dress well, wearing neckties, and their hair is nicely styled. The cocktails were so good that I quit my construction job, bought nice clothes, dyed my hair – it was blond – back to black and politely approached the boss with a bow and asked if I could get a job at the bar.”

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Kaneko at Zuma.
Kaneko at Zuma.
Where do you get inspiration for your cocktails? “I never learned from cocktail books – I get ideas from cookbooks and art books. I try to be curious about different things. Every day I think about making the liquid version of a dish. I imagine what it would taste like and what the drink would look like, how to turn something solid into liquid. One of my creations was an egg-shaped cocktail, which refers to how human life originated from Africa, imagining footsteps on the desert. When I think about creating drinks, it’s like cooking, where I think about the flavour, texture, taste, balance.”
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