The secret to baking good bread in humid Hong Kong, according to Pierre Gagnaire’s head baker, Michel Izard

Why is it difficult to make good bread, especially in Hong Kong? “There are so many reasons. The quality of the flour needs to be the best, and knowledge is important. You need to have natural dough that is the soul of a baker. Flour and water together is a micro-organism. Yeast adds fermentation and flavour.

“To make good bread you need time. We let the dough rest overnight and give it time to do its job. With humidity, you should bake the bread a bit longer. That’s why the recipe is one thing, the knowledge to adjust it is the real job.”

What’s chef Pierre Gagnaire like to work with? “He’s a great guy, a poet. He has a nice feeling with people, very sincere. He’s easy to talk to and he knows how to deal with people. He’s a quiet force.”

What are your childhood memories of food? “When I was six or seven years old I would pretend to stir the pan. I watched my mother and grand­mother cook. At home everyone is around the table. It’s a meeting point. My mum and grandmother made home-made stews with great produce from the garden, as well as poultry and rabbit.”

What do you like about cooking? “Cooking is a matter of trust. When you invite people over to eat, you want to please them so you give them the best you can. There’s a difference between ‘can’t eat’ and ‘don’t like’. Eating is a pleasure.”