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Grapes meet slate in powerful, rich, complex Mosel rieslings

What did the Romans ever do for us? Well, for one, they introduced vines to the vertiginous Mosel Valley, preparing the ground for powerful rieslings

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Piesport village in the Mosel Valley, Germany. Picture: Alamy
Sarah Wong
When it comes to Mosel riesling, third-generation winemaker Nik Weis, of German winery St Urbans-Hof, says the grape variety plays second fiddle.

“I do not make riesling,” he says. “I am making Mosel. Riesling is but the vehicle.”

Weis’ vineyards cling precariously to the steep slopes of the Mosel Valley, in the west of Germany. The region’s slate soils are rich in calcium and potassium, which, he says, add a savoury element to the wine.

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A mural of St Urban on the wall of St Urbans-Hof. Picture: Alamy
A mural of St Urban on the wall of St Urbans-Hof. Picture: Alamy
Viticulture in the valley extends back to the Romans, who introduced vines and the area’s heart-shaped, single-post trellising system. No wires are used, which makes the vines easier to prune and gives the grapes maximum sun exposure. Vines are closely planted at one per square metre, or about 10,000 vines per hectare. Weis says this dense planting leads to low grape yield, owing to competition for water and nutrients. This produces more concentrated fruit and powerful wines.
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Weis argues that the most important work takes place in the vineyard; in the cellar, he says, “You only lose quality.”

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