How top Korean chef stopped hating kitchen work and came up with his ‘hybrid fusion’ style

Why did you decide to become a chef? “Growing up, my dream was to be an artist and to work in a creative industry. I started out hating the idea of becoming a chef. When I was in high school, I specialised in art and creative writing, but my father disapproved of my dream. He recommended that I become a chef, and because he had deep relations with Japan, from studying at Tokyo University, he sent me there after my military service.

“Twenty years ago, the culinary industry in Japan was booming. South Korea’s gastronomic industry was weak back then, but now, Michelin stars are pouring in. I hated being a chef because it was so tough: the hours were long; I had to stay in a boiling hot kitchen for most of the day; people in the kitchen shouted at each other to communicate. I didn’t like it. However, I persevered and started to love my job because people started to love my food.”

Describe your cuisine and style. “My culinary concept is called ‘hybrid fusion’. It’s a term I coined and it revolves around combining Japanese and French techniques with the best Korean ingredients. When I opened Ryunique, three years ago, the local customers went crazy because the dishes I was offering were considered ahead of their time. It was a ‘selfish style’, as some called it, because my products reflected my vision. Our presentation and embellish­ments are modern, but we focus heavily on a traditional palate, although we don’t label our dishes as being traditional Korean cuisine. I am Korean, so it is inevitable for me to include Korean influences, such as kimchi, into my dishes.

“Ryunique was able to earn a spot on Asia’s Best 50 Restaurants [list], so I got exposure and was able to keep improving my restaurant and culinary work to be both accom­mo­dating to the palates of my customers and still be able to keep my unique style.”