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How wars were once fought over spices - cookbook looks at history and modern uses of all things aromatic

Australian chef and author Christine Manfield’s book explains the role played by spices - in trade, cooking and health

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A recipe for chilli mudcrab from the Spice cookbook, by Christine Manfield.
Susan Jung

Nowadays, we tend to take spices for granted but, in the past, wars have been fought and countries have been colonised because of the spice trade.

In Spice (1999), Australian chef and author Christine Manfield tells us about the role spices have played in world history – and not just in the kitchen.

Cookbook by Christine Manfield.
Cookbook by Christine Manfield.
“For centuries, spices have been used to flavour food and drinks. They have played a major role in food prepar­ation and preservation, and their diversity and availability continue to make them an essential component of cooking practices. But spices, herbs and aromatics go beyond the pleasure of the palate. In early trade, spices often took the place of hard currency.”
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“They have played an important role in health, adding healing properties to medicines, and they have been used to give scent to perfumes. A study of Ayurvedic practices in India gives an understanding of how spices can work for the well-being of the body. Such beliefs and practices are becom­ing widely accepted in Western society’s search for a healthy diet and sense of wellness.”

But, she admits, the use of spices was slow to catch on in Australia.

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“Until recent times, Australian cooking in general has had very little to do with spice. In the formative years of white settlement in this country, diet and eating habits were entirely inappropri­ate to resources, climate and lifestyle.”

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