Try these hard-to-find wines from new grapes or unusual regions

Hong Kong’s position as awine hub was cemented in 2008, when duty on imported tipples was cut to zero. Since then, boutique importers have expanded the local drinking experience by bringing in esoteric, hard-to-find wines.

Alan Kwok, of Deco Wines, is one such innovator. When you tire of well-known, large-volume brands, Kwok recommends trying a new grape variety, an unusual region or wines made using ancient techniques.

Jean Vesselle, Oeil de Perdrix, Brut NV, Bouzy, Champagne, HK$380

Located in Bouzy, Domaine Jean Vesselle is a récoltant-manipulant – a grower that makes champagne under its own label, from grapes sourced from its own vineyards. Its 15 hectares are planted with 90 per cent pinot noir and 10 per cent chardonnay, and cultivated by lutte raisonnée (“the reasoned struggle”), a sustainable form of agriculture. No herbicides are employed and the winery relies on solar energy.

Bouzy is renowned for its pinot noir-based champagnes, and the Oeil de Perdrix is made from that grape. The name, meaning “partridge eye”, refers to the colour of the wine, which is neither white nor rosé, but somewhere in between. A rosé de saignée, the wine derives its pale salmon colour from the short period of skin contact at pressing. This method of rosé champagne winemaking had almost disappeared, but was revived when a few bottles of old wine were discovered in 1972.

A blend of strawberry, cherries and raspberries on the nose, with some floral notes. Succulent, round with a soft acidity. Well-balanced with a fine bead. Delicious and drinking well.