The Corkscrew | Three styles of chenin blanc, a diverse white wine with a difference

One grape that is off the wine world’s beaten track is chenin blanc.

The variety’s natural home is the vineyards of the Loire Valley, in France, and of South Africa, where it’sknown as steen. Of the two, South Africa has more chenin blanc vines; the variety accounts for18.5 per cent of all white grape plantings in the country.

Chenin blanc makes an incredibly diverse array of wines. It’s made into a sparkling wine à la méthode traditionnelle in Vouvray, in the Loire Valley, or a cap classique, which is the South African way of describing a wine made using the same techniques as those used in the production of champagne. Both range from brut (dry) to demi-sec (ripe, juicy fruit that’s off-dry on the palate).

As for still wines, both the Loire Valley and South Africa use chenin blanc to produce a sec style – lean and bone dry, sometimes a tad smoky on the palate, with lovely notes of tart green apples, quince, not-yet-ripe pear, a generous whiff of honeysuckle blossoms and a hint of beeswax.

A more aromatic style, veering towards off-dry, is possible with riper fruit. It has a lush, lovely bouquet of honeysuckle, ginger flowers and lilac, with sliced ripe, fresh pear that makes your mouth water, and a warm gold hue that some Vouvray winemakers call “tendre”.

South Africa’s Jordan Wine Estate makes an impressive version, called Inspector Péringuey. Coming from very old vines, it is rich and ripe, with a lovely, buttery honey­suckle colour and flavours of bosc pears and warmed apricots that linger long after a sip.