I love the small baby chickens that producers label spring chickens, poussins or coquelettes. The size – about 500 grams each – is just enough for one person, and the meat is tender and moist. They’re more expensive than fully-grown chickens, so I reserve them for dinner parties.

Grilled Thai-spiced spring chicken with nam jim jaew

Start marinating the birds in the morning of the day you’re going to cook them. Because they’re so small, the chickens take only about 30 minutes to cook (for a weight of 500 grams; adjust the time if the birds are larger). Try to buy birds that are about the same weight. You can cook them in the oven, using the grill setting (with convection, if your oven has this option), or outside on the barbecue.

I learned to make nam jim jaew from an ex-helper, who was from Isaan, Thailand. The sauce is addictive, and I sometimes make a double batch so I have a supply in the fridge, ready to perk up other types of grilled meat.

4 spring chickens, about 500 grams each
4 garlic cloves
4 red bird’s-eye chillies
30 grams fresh coriander roots
20 grams lemongrass stalks, the juicy core only
40 grams palm sugar
160ml Thai fish sauce
40ml fresh lime juice
¼ tsp finely ground white pepper

For the nam jim jaew:
30 grams palm sugar
40ml fish sauce
40ml fresh lime juice
2 tsp roasted glutinous rice powder
1-2 tsp Thai dried chilli powder
2 large shallots
1-2 spring onions
2 sprigs fresh coriander
Sticky rice, for serving

1 Spatchcock the chickens. Place a bird, breast side-down, on a cutting board, with the tail facing you. Use kitchen shears to cut the bird along one side of the backbone, cutting from the tail to the neck. Turn the bird around then cut along the other side of the backbone, this time cutting from the neck to the tail.

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Open up the chicken and place it skin-side up on the cutting board. Press the bird firmly with your hand until you hear the bones crack, then flip it over. Run your fingers under the rib bones and shoulder bones to detach them from the meat. Pull out the rib bones (if needed, use kitchen shears to cut them from the breastbone). Snap off the shoulder bones from the carcass. At this point, the chicken should have bones in the legs and wing, and the breastbone and wishbone. Do the same to the remaining birds and put them in a large bowl.

2 Make the marinade. Finely chop the garlic, chillies and fresh coriander roots, and thinly slice the lemongrass. Put the garlic, chillies, coriander root, lemongrass and palm sugar in the bowl of the chopper attachment of an immersion blender and process to a rough purée (or you can pound the ingredients in a mortar). Mix in the fish sauce, lime juice and white pepper, then pour the marinade over the birds in the bowl and mix well. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least four hours (eight is better), mixing occasionally.

3 Make the nam jim jaew. If the palm sugar is too hard, microwave it briefly until it’s soft. Mix the palm sugar with the fish sauce, lime juice, glutinous rice powder and chilli powder. Halve the shallots then thinly slice them. Cut the spring onions into thin rounds, and roughly chop the coriander. Add the ingredients to the fish sauce mixture and stir.

4 Let the chickens come to room temperature before grilling them. Take the birds from the marinade, scraping off any solids from the meaty (non-skin) parts. If cooking the chick­ens in the oven, turn the grill function (with convection setting, if possible) to high.

Place the chickens skin side-up on a grill rack placed over the grill tray. Brush some of the marinade over the skin, and spoon some of the marinade’s solid ingredients on top. Put the birds about 5cm away from the grill element at the top of the oven.

Cook for about 30 minutes (for 500 gram birds), turning the tray around halfway through; if the skin gets too dark, place the tray further away from the heat. The chickens should be well-bronzed and slightly charred in spots. Cook the chickens until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thigh (but not touching the bone) reaches 70 degrees Celsius. Remove the tray from the oven and let the birds rest for 10 minutes, after which the internal temperature should reach 75 degrees.

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If you’re grilling the birds on the barbecue, prepare the coals about 45 minutes before you want to cook the meal. When the coals are white and glowing, spread them evenly over the bottom of the barbecue. Place the birds skin side-down on the grill rack placed about 8cm away from the coals. Cover the barbecue with the lid and cook until the internal temperature reaches 70 degrees.

Watch the chickens carefully and if they get too dark, move the grill rack further away from the heat. (If they’re too pale, move them closer to the coals.) When the internal temperature reaches 70 degrees, take the chickens from the barbecue and place them skin side-up on a cutting board to rest for 10 minutes.

5 You can serve the birds whole, or halved or quartered. Serve with steamed Thai sticky rice, with the bowl of dipping sauce on the side.