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I’m not a chef, I’m a ‘curious human being’, says Bo Bech, man behind Copenhagen’s Geist restaurant

  • The Danish chef reveals how he cooked his way into the bank manager’s heart to get the €20,000 he needed to start his first restaurant
  • He talks about serving Jorn Utzon, the Sydney Opera House architect, and about how Noma restaurant replaced footballers as the symbol of Denmark

Reading Time:4 minutes
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Bo Bech at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, in Central. Picture: Tory Ho.
Alkira Reinfrank

What was your childhood like? “I got teased a lot for being fat, for being a stupid guy. I wasn’t trendy, I wasn’t beautiful, I wasn’t clever – I was an easy target. As a child I was a ghost in a way.”

How did you discover your love for food? “It was pure luck; I stumbled into the pot. I thought a job was some­thing you did so you could acquire money so you could then have fun. I had no idea that a job could be something so full of life and passion. In my case, that happened when I started cooking. The world flipped for me.

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“At 24, I was in the army as a United Nations soldier in Yugoslavia in the early ’90s; it was horrible. We had to cook for our­selves, and I realised all of a sudden that there was something interesting and relevant about taking something from the earth to the table. From then on I under­stood everything about myself. I got hungry for life, and when you get hungry and curious, passion and desire come. Working in a kitchen requires tough love, nothing is easy, but it is easier if your passion comes naturally.”

How did a grilled leek lead to you opening your first restaurant, Paustian, which went on to win a Michelin star? “I had been head chef for four years at a restaurant [Jan Hurtigkarl & Co] that was almost like the El Bulli of Denmark. I took a year off and travelled, and said, ‘I’m going to do this [open his own restaurant].’ The intention was to be the best. But I did not have any money.

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Turbot with fennel ravioli on gruyere by Bech, inspired by customer Jorn Utzon’s design for the Sydney Opera House.
Turbot with fennel ravioli on gruyere by Bech, inspired by customer Jorn Utzon’s design for the Sydney Opera House.
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