‘Fine dining doesn’t have to be overly serious’, says South African chef Chantel Dartnall
- The owner of Mosaic restaurant in Elandsfontein, near Pretoria, was named best female chef at the 2017 Best Chef Awards
- She talks about giving up her vegetarianism and being tricked into shaving her head
How did Mosaic come about? “I always wanted to be a chef and have my own restaurant, so my mom and stepdad worked with me to achieve this vision. My stepdad is the cellar master, and with 75,000 bottles, Mosaic has the most extensive and most awarded wine list in Africa and the Middle East. We might be slightly compulsive wine collectors, but we visit the winemakers and taste [everything].”
How did you get into cooking? “We grew up on the farm [where Mosaic is located, in Elandsfontein] and it was wonderful to be in nature and learn from my grandmother [her stepdad’s mother]. During school holidays, I was in the kitchen with her making cookies or baking cakes. We made braised tongue, shin and short ribs, and meatballs. We also made a traditional deep-fried bread called vetkoek, which is eaten with curry mince and sweet chutney, but the ultimate is with salted butter and Lyle’s Golden Syrup.”
Where did your interest in vegetables come from? “When I went to high school, I decided to become vegetarian. I wish I could say it was for religious reasons, but it was just because it was trendy. My mom said I would have to cook for myself and that encouraged me to discover the vast possibilities with vegetables. I planted my own herbs and made infusions and teas. A typical South African diet mainly consists of meat, rice and potatoes, and vegetables are almost forgotten. For me, it was wonderful getting back into the cycles of nature.”
Did you go to culinary school? “When I was 13, I attended a high school that had hotel-keeping and catering as a full-time subject. We cooked for two hours a day. They taught us the French basics of making bread, sauces like mayonnaise and béarnaise, and basic wine knowledge. After graduating, I wrote to all the three-Michelin-starred restaurants in England and France by fax. Literally half an hour later, I got a call from Chez Nico, in London, with a chef position.”
What was that experience like? “It was a pretty intense 18 months. The work ethic of chefs in England – you don’t find it in France – everybody is so focused, they take things seriously, it’s a harsh environment. I don’t think I would have achieved what I have if it wasn’t for my time in England because it teaches you stamina, perseverance, but also respect and camaraderie.”
Why did you stop being vegetarian? “On my first day [at Chez Nico, in 2000], they put me in the larder section and cut a thick slice of foie gras terrine on brioche. Chef Nico [Ladenis] told me to eat it and when I told him I was vegetarian he said I had to either go back on the plane or finish the terrine.”