How to make Sichuan pepper chicken, a Chiu Chow classic

There are many Chinese dishes famous in different parts of the world that can trace their roots back to Chiu Chow cuisine. The ones that immediately come to mind are bak kut teh (which many people associate with Malaysia and Singapore), oyster omelette (versions of which are made in Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand and Taiwan), and popiah (also eaten in Malaysia, Singapore and Taiwan), because these places had a large number of Chiu Chow immigrants.

Chin jiew gai (Sichuan pepper chicken)

You may think from the name that chin jiew gai – Sichuan pepper chicken – is a Sichuan dish, but it’s actually Chiu Chow. The spice is quite unusual in Chiu Chow cuisine, but fish sauce – which most people associate with Thai and Vietnamese food – is not; it’s used in place of, or in addition to, soy sauce.

The presentation of chin jiew gai is distinctive, because the chicken is always served surrounded by fried leafy greens – traditionally, Lysimachia clethroides, which is difficult to source, unless you grow it yourself. Restaurants and home cooks usually substitute holy basil or mint.

It’s essential that you do not rinse the leaves before frying them; even if you dry them with paper towels, you’ll be adding more water into the combination, and the results can be dangerous. Use the leaves straight out of the packet.

Chin jiew gai is made with diced boneless chicken. Like all other boneless chicken dishes, it tastes best if cooked with dark meat from the leg or thigh, but many people prefer the breast meat, so that’s what I used in this recipe. Because the breast cooks quickly, I cut the chicken into larger pieces – about 2.5cm – rather than the small dice (about 1cm) that restaurants usually use; this way, you lessen the chances of drying out the meat.

To marinate the meat: