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Spam, adored by Asians, is no longer the ‘secret shame’ you dare not admit to loving

Created in 1937 in the US state of Minnesota, Spam has gone through something of a glow-up, shedding its shameful connotations to become a beloved pantry staple

Luncheon meat is used in many Asian cultures – in a South Korean stew, topping instant noodles, in a classic Spam sandwich – and some chefs swear by it

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Since when did it become so trendy to like Spam, once considered a shameful secret? Photo: Shutterstock

Published: 8:15am, 7 Aug 2022

I conducted an unofficial survey on Instagram recently, posing the question: why do you like Spam? Over the course of an hour, the responses piled up in my inbox like, well … spam.

There are many things in the culinary world that elicit extreme opinions from both ends of the spectrum, such as Marmite and durian, but Spam – or more broadly, luncheon meat – has always seemed to be the ugly duckling (piglet?) that grew into the beautiful swan everyone wanted to befriend.

In the litany of responses I received, many from chefs and silver-spoon-fed foodies, Spam is largely put on a pedestal. “Where do I begin?” ponders one, as though about to pen a sonnet to Spam. “Small tin, but full of flavour,” quips a chef, who I now know has a penchant for Spam on spicy Shin Ramyun. “I was raised on Spam sandwiches!” a well-known drinks writer excitedly exclaimed.

A cookbook author, who rarely communicates with me via DM, waxed lyrical about its taste and versatility, declaring crispy fried Spam better than bacon. And for one long-time vegan, Spam still induces a sense of nostalgia as it was a large part of her childhood. (Thankfully, there is now plant-based Spam – namely OmniPork luncheon meat.)

For many, Spam induces a sense of nostalgia. Photo: Shutterstock

If there were an OnlyFans for Spam (OnlySpam?), I’d hazard most of these people would be on it. It’s quite the glow-up for a product created in 1937, in Minnesota, that once provided sustenance to American troops during World War II.