When the West went East: photos of China’s treaty ports
Chinese history

Grand Western-style buildings scattered across China, a legacy of the 1840-1943 treaty ports, are the subject of Nicholas Kitto’s new book

In the mid-1990s, I began to travel frequently from Hong Kong to the Chinese mainland on business. In Tianjin in 1996, I managed to locate the house in which my father lived until he was six, before the family relocated to Hankou. (My grandfather worked for the Asiatic Petroleum Company [North China], one of two subsidiaries of the Royal Dutch Shell group operating in China at the time.)

In December 1997, armed with one of my father’s photo­graphs, taken around 1930, I was able to locate the former Tientsin Country Club, which my father remembered well, if only from the outside, as children were seldom permitted within.

While visiting Tianjin with my father in November 2004, we walked around the old city centre and it was hard not to notice a significant number of Western-style buildings. I wanted to know who used them and for what purpose, how many more of them remained in China and where they were.

And so I discovered the treaty port era, loosely defined as 1840 to 1943, when Western powers established extraterritorial trading posts, consulates of profit in the Far East, the number in China growing from five to more than 70 during the century.

Nicholas Kitto outside the former Tianjin Country Club in 1997. Photo: Nicholas Kitto

I was soon fascinated by this aspect of colonial history and my family’s place within it. In September 2008, my exploration of China’s former treaty ports commenced in earnest.

The timing was fortunate. With the approaching Beijing Olympics, many cities had invested significant resources in restoring buildings of historical interest, and not just in Olympic host cities. Restoration projects extended from Harbin in the north to Beihai in the south.

This included, but was not limited to, moving structures several metres to make way for a new construction, diverting traffic underground or demolishing gruesome concrete bridges from the 1950s. And the restorations continue to this day.

At the time of writing, the city of Yantai (previously Chefoo) is undertaking a large project to restore the former foreign settlement area to its previous state.

By 2016, I had made more than 50 visits to as many former treaty ports and settlements, accumulating over 4,000 photographs of surviving buildings. Many are accessible, a significant number are beautiful, and all of them hold a history that has clear and present links to our own time.

Complex brickwork on the St Sophia church in Harbin partially explains why construction took nine years (1923-32). Photo: Nicholas Kitto
The German consulate in Hankou, facing the Yangtze River, is now part of a large Wuhan Municipal Government compound. Photo: Nicholas Kitto
The French Custom House in Mengzi, in Yunnan province, was built in expectation of increased trade with what is now Vietnam. Photo: Nicholas Kitto
The British consulate in Beihai, constructed in 1885, was moved in 1999 to make way for a dual carriageway. Photo: Nicholas Kitto
The Astor Hotel in Tianjin was restored in 2010, preserving all the period details. Photo: Nicholas Kitto
The British consul-general compound on the Bund in Shanghai now houses a luxury club. Photo: Nicholas Kitto
The Custom House at Wuhu was completed in 1919. Photo: Nicholas Kitto
Hazelwood, Butterfield & Swire taipan’s mansion in Shanghai was completed in 1934 in the former French concession and is now an annex to an international hotel. Photo: Nicholas Kitto
Kitto’s book, Trading Places. Photo: Handout

Nicholas Kitto, Trading Places, A Photographic Journey Through China’s Former Treaty Ports (Blacksmith Books)

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