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Then & Now
Jason Wordie

‘There is nothing in the world like Hong Kong’: 1923 travel writer impressed on a brief visit; some of his observations remain true to this day

  • Australian William Farmer Whyte was entranced by his two-day visit to a place he wrote ‘may be British-owned, but … is Chinese all the same’
  • His Asian travelogue lay unpublished until 2022, yet some of what he wrote about Hong Kong, its landscapes and people still resonates today

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A 1920s aerial view of Hong Kong, with Western District in the foreground and the Kowloon peninsula and hills in the background. Australian William Farmer Whyte sailed into Victoria Harbour for a two-day visit in 1923, recorded in his travelogue. Photo: The University of Hong Kong Libraries

Australian journalist William Farmer Whyte made a four-month trip around Asia just after the catastrophic 1923 Kantō earthquake and firestorm had flattened Tokyo.

The Awakening Giant: Travels and Reflections in the East in 1923 was the result and – in common with other contemporary travel journals – brief impressions were usual for most locations.

A two-day stay in Hong Kong left Whyte entranced. Arrival through Lyemun was – and remains – one of the world’s great maritime approaches; for maximum effect, passenger liners usually entered the harbour at dawn.

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“Suddenly in the distance we saw Hong Kong. I have never seen anything like it before, and never will again – for there is nothing in the world like Hong Kong. Here in China, and over there in Japan, one sees the other side of life […] a civilisation that is older than ours, a culture that is no mean thing. Hong Kong may be British-owned, but it is Chinese all the same.”

Whyte drove for lunch in Repulse Bay (above in 1947) during his visit. Photo: SCMP
Whyte drove for lunch in Repulse Bay (above in 1947) during his visit. Photo: SCMP

While Whyte considered Nikko in Japan to be the world’s most beautiful place, “Hong Kong, [was] the most wonderful. I would say that Hong Kong is the Eighth Wonder of the World. And this for more reasons than one.”

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