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Cliff Buddle

OpinionEven for a Londoner, the energy of 1990s Hong Kong was next level

  • Limited Western food options, edgy nights out, a buzzing harbour – Hong Kong in the mid-’90s meant excitement and, without the internet, writing letters home
  • Supermarket choices steadily grew but much stayed the same for the next quarter of a century. Only in the past few years has some of the old Hong Kong gone

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Looking down on Central, Hong Kong, in the mid-1990s. For many years little changed except the skyline. Photo: SCMP

My new home in Britain could not be more different from Hong Kong. Skyscrapers have been replaced by little cottages. There are deserted lanes rather than crowded streets, a village shop instead of the city’s glitzy malls and no street lights, let alone neon signs.

Having settled into the house I bought last month, I am starting to explore my surroundings. And my thoughts return to my arrival in Hong Kong 28 years ago.

A contemporary photograph of the Hong Kong skyline, a thoughtful Christmas gift, takes centre stage in my new dining room. The cityscape has, of course, changed dramatically since my first glimpse of it when making the nerve-tingling descent to Kai Tak, in 1994. There was no IFC, for a start.

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But it is surprising how much has stayed the same. For me, there are so many stories to be found in that picture. I can see Western District, where I first lived. I recall the city overwhelming my senses.

A Cathay Pacific airliner makes the nerve-tingling descent into Hong Kong’s Kai Tak Airport in 1994. Photo: Keith Macgregor
A Cathay Pacific airliner makes the nerve-tingling descent into Hong Kong’s Kai Tak Airport in 1994. Photo: Keith Macgregor

I would peer through the window across the harbour, blown away by the frenzied activity below. Countless boats swarmed in all directions, trams rattled by and taxis whizzed past. I came from London, but the energy in Hong Kong back then was on a different level.

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It is difficult now to imagine a life before globalisation and the Internet. My wife was still in England and we communicated by writing letters. An occasional conversation might be snatched, if I could find a free pay phone in 7-Eleven.
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