Village life in Hong Kong or Britain? Why both will always hold magic for me after growing up in London
- The roaming buffalo, scent of flowers and relative tranquillity of Lantau Island far outweighed the inconveniences of Hong Kong country life for Cliff Buddle
- Now back in the UK after 28 years, country life involves village fetes, cricket, ‘waggiest tail’ competitions and cow pat bingo – and is just as appealing
Not many people expect to live in a village when embarking on a new life in Hong Kong. But for me, country life in Mui Wo, on the eastern coast of Lantau Island, was a delight for a decade after my arrival in 1994.
This meant living in often-dilapidated “small houses”. There were no roads between the villages. Handcarts were used for transporting everything from groceries, to wine, to kids.
It was not the most convenient location. I would catch the 7.15am ferry to work. Cycling in a suit during the summer storms was not much fun. There were run-ins with snakes and I was bitten by a dog.
But after growing up in London, I loved the magic of rural living – the roaming buffalo, the scent of the ginger flowers, the flash of a kingfisher and the relative tranquillity.
It is no surprise, therefore, that on returning to Britain, I opted to live in the countryside. This time, my village is typically English.
There is a church, a pub and a village green on which cricket is played at weekends. Provisions are purchased from the village shop, run by volunteers.
I saw Hong Kong’s democratic struggle. Britons should value their vote more
This is a lively community. I am tempted to try my hand at bell-ringing at the church. And the cricket club needs new members. It says all standards are welcome. I wonder if they mean that. I haven’t played for 30 years. The wine-tasting evening might be a safer bet.
The countryside comes to life in the summer. There are flower shows, parades, fairs and food festivals as well as a re-enactment of Battle of Britain dogfights. Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream will be performed in the open air at the local school.
The village fete is the closest we get to seeing a crowd. There was an impressive classic car display. Pet dogs competed for the “waggiest tail” award. There was beer and burgers and trips up the vertiginous church tower.
The fete’s claim to fame is cow pat bingo. Part of the village green is divided into squares and you pay to pick one out of a hat. At the allotted time, a cow is released. The first square it relieves itself on is the winner. The prize was a night for two at a hotel in the small town of Rye.
This might not hit cultural heights, but it was fun. And all the money raised goes to help maintain the church.
Eating in the garden on a summer’s evening, with the sound of bat hitting ball on the green and an air balloon floating above, Hong Kong seems far away. But the appeal of village life is the same as that which attracted me to Mui Wo all those years ago. Peaceful, close to nature and with the city not too far away.
