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Life.Culture.Discovery.

Reflections | Laminated brow trend has got nothing on eyebrow styles of ancient China – drawn to look like feathers, tadpoles, daggers or silkworm cocoons

  • Eyebrows have long been a way for people to express themselves, from today’s bushy laminated brows to ones drawn with the burnt end of a twig in ancient China
  • 2,000 years ago, a governor’s career was killed when he helped draw his wife’s eyebrows. The intimate act was branded a scandal for subverting social order

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Laminated eyebrows are trending these days, but thousands of years ago in ancient China women shaped their eyebrows in more extreme ways. A city governor in the Han dynasty (74 to 48BC) was impeached for helping his wife with her eye make-up. Photo: Shutterstock

Someone I know just can’t stop doing things to their eyebrows. When I first met them, they were sporting thread-thin perfect arches that looked like they had been inscribed with a pair of mathematical compasses.

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Then, it was a pair of severe, straight lines pointed at the ends. I saw a different pair of eyebrows each time we met. The latest iteration was the “laminated brow”.

It was explained to me that the hairs of their eyebrows had been treated with a perming lotion (“laminated”), before they were teased apart, straightened and combed upwards.

I don’t know if it is the intended effect, but they look like a permanently surprised cartoon character with arched, bushy eyebrows. It is supposed to last only a few weeks, and for their sake, I hope that is indeed the case.

The Chinese have a unique word, dai, that specifically refers to cosmetics for the eyebrows.

Depending on the fashions of the period, some of the brows that ancient and medieval Chinese women drew on their own faces would be considered bizarre and even comical today. Photo: Getty Images
Depending on the fashions of the period, some of the brows that ancient and medieval Chinese women drew on their own faces would be considered bizarre and even comical today. Photo: Getty Images

The most ancient form of dai was the burnt end of a twig. These rudimentary eyebrow pencils were later replaced by powdered minerals like lazurite, mica or talcum, with dyes and scents added. The greenish black powder was applied with a moistened brush.

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