-
Advertisement
PostMag
Life.Culture.Discovery.
PostMagTravel

There's more to a Dublin holiday than the inevitable pub crawl

The Irish capital and its surrounds have a lot to offer the intrepid visitor - weather permitting. Text and pictures by Tim Pile.

Reading Time:4 minutes
Why you can trust SCMP
Temple Bar, in Dublin, Ireland.
Tim Pile

It's a gloriously sunny day in Dublin but when I mention this to the hotel receptionist, she puts a finger to her lips and warns me not to jinx it. Switching subjects, I ask for directions to Glasnevin Cemetery.

"Oh, you'll love it there," she says, with what appears to be a straight face.

Dubliners are an optimistic bunch for whom the (pint) glass is invariably half full. Humour and self-deprecation pepper conversations so that even a proposed visit to a graveyard elicits good-natured envy. Within 20 minutes of my meteorological faux pas, storm clouds gather and a light drizzle dimples the River Liffey. Perfect weather for traipsing around a cemetery.

Advertisement
The Irish capital's Glasnevin Cemetery.
The Irish capital's Glasnevin Cemetery.

First, though, there's the gift shop to negotiate. I join a group of ancestor-tracing Americans browsing bookshelves filled with titles such as Dead Interesting: Stories from the Graveyards of Dublin and the DVD One Million Dubliners, which "explores life, death and the afterlife".

Advertisement

There's also an assortment of Guinness merchandise and a range of chunky knitwear on special offer but it's the guided tours that draw curious visitors. Ours is led by a man with the pallid appearance of an undertaker and a wry sense of funereal humour.

Advertisement
Select Voice
Choose your listening speed
Get through articles 2x faster
1.25x
250 WPM
Slow
Average
Fast
1.25x