A pilgrimage through Galicia, Spain’s Celtic corner
With its emerald countryside, dramatic coast, pilgrims and bagpipes, Galicia’s Celtic roots are obvious. Tim Pile visits a very different corner of Spain.
A rainstorm of biblical proportions is sweeping across Santiago de Compostela. Seeing my heavenwards glance, the woman sitting next to me on the bus shakes her head dismissively.
“It’s just a shower. We’ve had a lot of sunny weather recently. It’ll be fine again tomorrow.”
I have my doubts. Galicia is Spain’s wettest region and Santiago de Compostela is the wettest part of Galicia. Locals are eternal optimists, however, and are fond of announcing: “Nunca choveu que non escampara” (“it has never rained without clearing afterwards”).
You don’t have to be a pilgrim to appreciate the city, although it helps. According to legend, the remains of Spain’s patron saint, James the Apostle, were discovered here in the 9th century, elevating Santiago’s status and sowing the seeds of a pilgrimage (tourism) industry that shows no signs of slowing. In 2015, more than a quarter of a million people from 178 countries completed the Camino de Santiago, or Way of St James, on foot, bicycle, horse and even by wheelchair.
I feel slightly underwhelmed on reaching Praza do Obradoiro, the main square; partly because I haven’t walked 790km to be here but also because the cathedral is cloaked in scaffolding. Those sinking to their knees around me seem to barely notice.
Clutching their certificates of accomplishment, or compostelas, groups of soggy, exhausted pilgrims gaze up at the Romanesque structure in disbelief. Some wear beatific smiles as they hug, pray and pose for “we made it” photos. Others, overcome with emotion, break down in tears. It’s enough to turn cynics into believers.