Travel: Angkor Wat, the good, the bad and the ugly
The Cambodian destination is a fixture on must-see travel lists but the stunning showpiece of the Khmer Empire is not without its down points
THE GOOD
Travel bucket lists are all the rage at the moment although some have more clout than others. (I’d skip the Pokémon GO vacation planners if I were you.) Lonely Planet compilations are always worth taking seriously, so when the travel information company published its 500 Best Places to See countdown last year it caused a flurry of media attention. Topping the lengthy list was the temple complex of Angkor Wat, showpiece of Cambodia’s Khmer Empire, the most extensive urban civilisation of pre-industrial times.
Angkor reached its peak between the 9th and 14th centuries, when about 750,000 people lived in the sprawling but highly advanced metropolis. Khmer engineers were ahead of their time; the 400 sq km site features early versions of hydraulic structures such as moats, embankments, reservoirs and canals. Besides Angkor Wat itself, relics include the formidable temples of Ta Prohm and Bayon, as well as more than a thousand other artefacts and ruins.
There are direct flights from Hong Kong to the gateway town of Siem Reap and a couple of hours after leaving Chek Lap Kok you’ll be rubbing shoulders with Buddhist monks, archaeologists and the odd Tomb Raider fan. Accommodation ranges from backpacker hostel dorms to upmarket resorts with infinity pools, spas and wellness centres. Don’t miss the War Museum Cambodia, where you’ll learn about Khmer Rouge atrocities from guides who lived through the genocide. Haggle for souvenirs at the markets and decide whether you prefer an Angkor Wat sunrise or a sunset viewed from a riverboat on Tonlé Sap lake.
Sunrise “how, where and when” discussions take up more travel forum space than any other Angkor topic. Consider skipping the signature reflection pool setting and head instead to atmospheric Bayon Temple, where soft amber light caresses the carved stone faces. Now that you’re up and awake, make the most of the cooler temperatures and start exploring. (After the sunrise many tour groups return to their hotels for the breakfast buffet.) Away from the iconic monuments there’s plenty of room. Meditate amid gnarled tree roots and crumbling rubble, visit a local school or watch as villagers harvest rice.