Cracking Krakow, a stunning survivor of Nazi destruction
The medieval Polish city is a fairy tale town, almost too gorgeous for its own good
My compartment on the train from Warsaw to Krakow reminds me of the old days, when everyone had their nose in a novel, newspaper or magazine. Only one person is fiddling with his smartphone – but I have an excuse. I’m trying to book a hotel room before we arrive, which is in about 15 minutes.
Krakow is famed for its fairy tale old town brimming with churches, castles and pastel-coloured gingerbread houses. First, though, the train snakes past dreary uninspiring outskirts more reminiscent of Kwai Chung. Perhaps the suburbs were built to keep visitor expectations low.
Onboard Wi-fi comes to my rescue and a confirmation email arrives from Pokoje Goscinne Dom sw. Szymona, which I belatedly discover translates as “guest rooms at the House of St Simon”.
In the lobby there’s a framed painting of Pope John Paul II smiling benignly at a receptionist who smiles benignly at me.
