The good, bad and ugly sides to Bali

THE GOOD

Google the words “Bali” and “paradise” and you’ll be confronted with almost two million hits. Cliché-loving copywriters have a lot to answer for but, as anyone who has visited knows, the Island of the Gods really is a slice of Hindu heaven. Earlier this year, TripAdvisor reviewers rated it their favourite island in Asia; quite an achieve­ment considering the competition.

Bali is as relaxing or as hectic as you make it. Hire a car or motorbike and explore the patchwork of paddy fields that surround Ubud, the island’s cultural heart­land and culinary capital. Take in a temple ceremony – there are 10,000 shrines to choose from – or head to the coast, where there are more than enough bleached blond bays and serene stretches of black volcanic sand to go around.

Talking of which, two of Bali’s 11 mountains are active volcanoes. Early morning ascents are popular with hikers who scramble up sacred Mount Batur in time for sunrise then stop for a muscle-soothing dip at the hot springs on the way down. The four-hour ascent of Mount Agung, the island’s highest and holiest volcano, is even more challenging. Sore-headed sightseers complain of altitude sickness before admitting that they’re probably just hungover. A white-water-rafting trip blows away the cobwebs. Alternatively, scythe through the jungle in search of secret waterfalls or simply rest tired eyes on Bali’s luminous and numerous rice terraces.

If you’re feeling less energetic, shop for arts and crafts or pick up literary tips at the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival. Orga­nised tours inspired by the novel and 2010 film Eat, Pray, Love whisk fans around locations where Liz (Julia Roberts) searched for balance but ended up being swept off her feet. Self-improvement seekers sign up for Indonesian lessons or join a traditional dance and gamelan music workshop. There are surf schools ready to help you “hang ten” at legendary Kuta beach – but don’t forget to offer your services at one of the early morning clean-ups organised by the surfing community. At the end of a busy day, Balinese sunsets are best enjoyed with sand between toes and a cocktail in hand at a tropical beach bar.