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How to live like a king for a night at Vienna’s imperial Schönbrunn Palace

A stay in the suite at the 17th-century palace in the Austrian capital will make you feel like royalty – and, luckily for you, it won’t break the bank

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The Schloss Schönbrunn Grand Suite, lined with silk moiré and portraits of palace occupants from times past.
Peter Neville-Hadley

Another of those Viennese palace hotels?This is no overgrown town house. The Schönbrunn Palace, formerly the summer residence of the Austro-Hungarian emperors, was built in stages from the late 17th century as a Viennese Versailles, and stands with myriad outbuildings among ornate gardens. Here, you’re not staying in a hotel, but in a private flat in the Unesco World Heritage-listed main palace building itself. These are the only rooms available, and when the visiting public has been ushered out for the day, you and up to three companions will be the only overnight guests.

The sitting room in the Grand Suite.
The sitting room in the Grand Suite.
The 167-square-metre suite has sweeping views of the gardens and comprises bedrooms, bathrooms, dining room, sitting room and kitchen, all with a mixture of solid fur­nish­ings in suitably historical styles. Neo-rococo gold-and-white furniture is upholstered in red damask with a pineapple motif favoured by the royals themselves, and the corridors are lined with red silk moiré.

The absence of much of the usual hotel paraphernalia – although drawers and cupboards are stuffed with spare necessities – gives the feel­ing that you’re staying in the flat of a wealthy friend who happens to be out of town.

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Did you say 17th century? I hope there are mod cons. The apartment was renovated in 2013, so there are flat-screen tele­visions, Wi-fi and underfloor heating, but the lack of a lift does mean an 88-step spiral­ling climb in order to reach the top-floor suite’s front door. Luckily, check-in is at the Parkhotel Schönbrunn, a converted imperial guest house a 10-minute walk away.

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