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The good, bad and ugly sides of a holiday in Athens, now on Chinese tourists’ radar

Economic meltdown has made Greek capital more affordable for tourists, and it has some fantastic historic landmarks - if only they weren’t covered in scaffolding - but transport is chaotic and strike-prone, and look out for thieves

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The historic neighbourhood of Plaka, in Athens, Greece. Picture: Alamy
Tim Pile

THE GOOD

In terms of tourism, Athens doesn’t have it easy. The city faces regional competition from Italy and Turkey, not to mention more than 200 Greek islands. Times are changing, however, and Athens is finally basking in some good news. The London Evening Standard newspaper recently rated it Europe’s coolest new city-break destination and it placed fourth in a poll conducted by travel website European Best Destinations.

A combination of factors has brought about the upturn in interest. The hilltop Acropolis and its crowning jewel, the Parthenon, are merely the tip of the cultural iceberg. Wander along winding streets punctuated by Orthodox churches, museums and the beautifully preserved Temple of Hephaes­tus, timing your arrival at the Parliament building on Syntagma Square for the ceremonial and (ever so slightly comical) changing of the guard. Visit between June and August for the annual Athens and Epidaurus Festival, a shindig celebrating traditional and contemporary theatre, music and dance at venues such as the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. Frank Sinatra, Luciano Pavarotti, Sting, Andrea Bocelli and Elton John have all performed at the acoustically impeccable amphitheatre, which dates back to AD161.

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The debt crisis that continues to engulf Greece keeps prices down, which, combined with terrorist attacks in Turkey and North Africa, has resulted in a record-breaking spike in visitors to Athens. About five million tourists are expected this year – welcome news for a sector that provides a fifth of all jobs nationwide and is the largest contributor to the beleaguered economy.

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In March, the first cruise liner catering to Chinese passengers embarked on a four-day Aegean islands voyage from the port of Piraeus and, with the visa issue process due to be simplified, an upsurge in Chinese tourists is predicted.

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