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The good, bad and ugly sides to a holiday in Penang, Malaysia

Low cost of living makes the Malaysian island a top spot for retirees but the burgeoning onslaught of cruise ship visitors is destroying authenticity

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A trishaw taxi sightseeing tour in George Town, Penang. Pictures: Alamy
Tim Pile

THE GOOD

Three and a half hours from Hong Kong, Penang makes for an ideal long weekend getaway. Travellers with more time can make their way to the Malaysian holiday hot spot by island hopping through the Andaman archipelago all the way from Phuket. And for those in no hurry whatsoever, Penang is regarded as one of the best places in the world in which to retire, thanks to its tropical climate, low cost of living, high standard of health care and welcoming immigration laws. The food isn’t bad, either.

Penang Hill’s funicular railway is one of the world’s steepest.
Penang Hill’s funicular railway is one of the world’s steepest.
CNN Travel placed Penang second in its list of 17 best places to visit in 2017, describing it as “arguably one of Asia’s best street food destinations”. Dishes are as diverse as the people preparing them.
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Roadside hawkers serve up a medley of Chinese, Malay and Indian favourites while Nyonya creations, such as assam laksa (hot and sour noodles in fish soup), that combine Chinese cooking with Malay spices have experienced the culinary equivalent of going viral. Meals should be rounded off with an ais kacang; once just a sugary Malaysian shaved-ice dessert, now an Instagram superstar.

I would like to remind people that we are not monkeys, and this is not a zoo
Resident of Penang’s Clan Jetties

An increasingly popular way to get a taste for Penang is by luxury liner. Cruise companies are incorporating the island into a growing number of itineraries, which helps boost the local economy. Disembarkation rates are high – Princess Cruises claims that more than 80 per cent of its guests join Penang excursions or explore on their own and there are plans to expand Swettenham Pier to accommodate more vessels.

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