The good, bad and ugly sides to being a tourist in Cambridge

THE GOOD

Compact Cambridge is almost as sought after by tourists as it is by tiger parents. Captivated sightseers mingle with cultivated students and bowler-hatted college porters warn everyone to keep off the grass. The city oozes history, tradition and a self-assurance borne of academic achievement – affiliates of Cambridge University have won more Nobel prizes than those of any other institution in the world.

Flat-as-a-pancake Cambridge is geared up for two-wheeled transport. The city boasts more than 130km of cycle lanes, so rent a bike (£10/US$13 a day) and soak up the sights. If that sounds too energetic, hire a punt and steer your way serenely along The Backs; a scenic stretch of meadows, bridges and spires where several colleges back on to the River Cam.

Founded by Henry VIII in 1546, Trinity is the largest Oxbridge college in terms of student enrolment and, as a major landowner, is also the wealthiest. Alumni include Britain’s Prince Charles, scientist Isaac Newton, poet Lord Byron and 2015 Academy Award winner Eddie Redmayne. The 17th-century Great Court was the location of the 1924 courtyard dash against a chiming clock that was recreated in the 1981 film Chariots of Fire . The dash is still run.

To discover the city at an even slower pace, skip the organised excursions and download an MP3 walking tour pack to your phone. For centuries, there has been a market in Cambridge’s central square and the City Life and Open Spaces audio walk starts at the Guildhall on Market Square, minutes from the Great St Mary’s Church and King’s College Chapel. From Monday to Saturday, stallholders sell locally grown produce, cut flowers, second-hand books and bicycle repairmen do brisk business fixing flat tyres.

After cycling, punting and walking around town, slow things down to a crawl. A pub crawl. With a student population in excess of 19,000, it’s not surprising Cambridge is renowned for its watering holes. Modern theme pubs stand cheek by jowl with medieval hostelries. There’s live music at the Flying Pig while regulars at the unpretentious Champion of the Thames welcome anyone who demonstrates a taste for the local ale.