Off the beaten path in Japan: overlooked towns worthy of a road trip
They’re too often a blur from a Tokyo-Kyoto bullet train window, but the towns in between, steeped in tradition, offer excellent food, interesting diversions, and a taste of the real Japan without the crowds
Japan’s Golden Route is well-known and extremely well-worn. So although Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka undeniably have attractions to suit every taste, seasoned visitors are increasingly taking the road less travelled.
That path may not be well signposted and may lack international hotels, and the shops, restaurants and attractions may not be geared up for foreign visitors – but that is a big part of the appeal.
Overlooked by visitors from overseas are the central prefectures between Tokyo and Kyoto, which are too often a blur from a bullet train window. They are, however, ideal for a road trip.
A 75-minute Shinkansen ride north of Tokyo is Karuizawa Station, Nagano prefecture, the most convenient jumping off point for a part of Japan that is rich in tradition and history, has beautiful countryside and cultural masterpieces and takes unforgettable cuisine for granted.
After collecting the rental car – the office is alongside the station – our first stop is the town of Kakeyu, set deep in the valleys of Nagano and known for its onsen hot springs. Each of the small hotels that line the narrow streets has its own therapeutic onsen, while a free foot bath – a long trough made of cedar and lined by benches – is constantly steaming outside the town hall.
