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An authentic French bakery in India’s New Delhi – it’s not as hard to find as you might think

Located in the art deco Bikaner House, a majestic mansion built for Indian royalty, the offerings at L’Opéra’s 17th outlet are as splendid as its setting

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L’Opéra’s 17th outlet, in the spectacular setting of Bikaner House, New Delhi, India. Picture: Amrit Dhillon

So, when did the story begin? The opening of India’s first authentic French patisserie and boulangerie, L’Opéra, in the capital New Delhi, is a story that goes back to 2008. But this is not that story. What we are talking about is the opening of L’Opéra’s 17th outlet, in the spectacular setting of Bikaner House.

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Majestic and elegant, the only thing missing from the art-deco building was a salon de thé in which visitors could enjoy an earl grey with a nice millefeuille. L’Opéra, a chain launched by Frenchman Laurent Samandari and his family, filled the gap on February 10.

Tell us about Bikaner House. Built in the 1930s for the royal family of Rajasthan, the house was later used by the Bikaners as a residence when they visited the city to meet the British viceroy in the days of the Raj. In 1971, the princely pile was taken over by the Rajasthani government and gradually fell into disrepair.

Last year, it opened to the public after an extensive renovation. The heritage building now functions as a social and cultural centre – one of only a few examples of India using its historical buildings to benefit the public. It has an exhibition hall, a ballroom used for book launches and seminars, a boutique, a restaurant and a large piazza in which a farmers’ market is held on Sundays.

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Sunset over New Delhi, India.
Sunset over New Delhi, India.
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