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Mongolia: the good, bad and ugly sides for visitors to the Land of the Eternal Blue Sky

From wandering nomads to the summer festival of Naadam, Mongolia has much to offer, just remember to mind your manners and leave the dinosaur fossils where you find them

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Archery during the Naadam Festival in the town of Bulgan. Picture: Alamy
Tim Pile

The Good

It may not measure up as a dress rehearsal for the 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games but the summer festival of Naadam is the high­light of the Mongolian social calendar.

The Asian country, bordered by China and Russia, comes to a standstill during the “the three games of men”, which date back to ancient times, when warlords encouraged competitive sports to toughen men up in readiness for military service.

The event, or more accurately events (hundreds of Naadams take place across Mongolia), which this year started on Wednesday and ends today, provides competitors with the opportunity to demonstrate their prowess at wrestling, archery and horse racing.

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The games are also a chance for spectators to see and be seen. Dressed in traditional clothing, nomadic herdsman and city slickers alike meet up with old friends, tuck into tsuivan noodle stew and deep-fried khuushuur dumplings, and enjoy a glass or two of airag, a fermented horse-milk beverage that packs a hefty punch.

To get a feel for the atmosphere, catch the opening cere­mony and wrestling competition at the largest and most prestigious Naadam, which takes place in the 12,500-seat National Stadium in Ulan Bator, the Mongolian capital, then arrange to visit a provincial town or village to experience a more intimate version of the festivities.

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