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Adam Nebbs

Travellers' Checks | Himalayan ‘kingdom’ of Sikkim, in India, opens first airport and is ready to welcome travellers

Plus, “moving hotel” Cabin’s overnight sleeper services between San Francisco and Los Angeles have attracted mixed reviews, but might be worth a try

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The Indian state of Sikkim was, until now, one of the least accessible corners of the country.

“It’s not easy to find Sikkim on the map, unless one knows where to look for it,” narrated Indian filmmaker Satyajit Ray in an absorbing 1971 document­ary. “It’s a tiny little kingdom in the Himalayas, surrounded by West Bengal in the south, Nepal in the west, Tibet in the north and northeast, and the kingdom of Bhutan in the east.” Four years later, in May 1975, it became India’s 22nd state, and Ray’s film, titled Sikkim – commissioned by its last king, or chogyal – was banned throughout the country.

On October 4, Sikkim’s first airport received its first scheduled flight (the last state in India to do so) and hopes are high that tourism will now grow in what has been, until now, one of the least accessible corners of the country.

Daily morning flights to the new Pakyong Airport – which was almost 10 years in the making and is located about 30km south of the capital, Gangtok – are operated by SpiceJet from Kolkata, in West Bengal. Bhutan’s national carrier, Druk Air, is due to begin scheduled international flights from Paro, situated west of the capital, Thimphu, in January, opening up this Himalayan region to interesting new possibilities for travellers.

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Tourist information and entry-permit details can be found at sikkimtourism.gov.in. From Hong Kong, SpiceJet offers direct flights only to Delhi, so Sikkim will be most easily reached from here via Kolkata with one of Cathay Dragon’s several weekly flights.
Published on the same day that the first SpiceJet flight arrived at Pakyong Airport was a new paperback edition of Sikkim: Requiem for a Himalayan Kingdom (2015), by Andrew Duff. This widely praised account of the last days of independent Sikkim – caught up in cold war tensions between India and China – tells “the remarkable tale of Thondup Namgyal, the last King of Sikkim, and his American wife, Hope Cooke, thrust unwittingly into the spotlight as they sought support for Sikkim’s independence after their ‘fairy-tale’ wedding in 1963”. Ray’s film, Sikkim – long thought lost – was rediscovered at the British Film Institute in 2003 and can be found on YouTube.

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