Bulgaria, where a home in ‘the most beautiful town in the world’ will set you back just €25,000
- One of Europe’s cheapest countries is full of surprises, not least among locals bewildered by visitors
- Veliko Tarnovo is a riverside sight to behold, capital Sofia has hiking trails on the doorstep, and there’s the boisterous Black Sea resort of Sunny Beach for more hedonistic pursuits
Somewhere near the summit of Mount Vitosha I fall into line with two locals. “Not many cities have hiking trails on the doorstep,” they proudly announce. I tell them I know of one.
We tramp through dense forest and stop to take photos at a picturesque waterfall. “How many cities have such spectacular mountain scenery only a 30 minute bus ride away,” they ask. I tell them I know of one.
They go on to explain that the hazy vistas are because Sofia suffers from high levels of pollution and yet the authorities are doing little to address the problem. “Can you imagine such a short-sighted attitude?” I tell them I can.
More deaths are linked to poor air quality in Bulgaria than anywhere else in Europe. Free metro tickets and a doubling of city parking charges are being considered as an incentive to coax commuters out of their cars but things don’t always get done in a hurry in the capital. Plans for an underground rail system were first drawn up in the 1960s but the five-station line didn’t open to the public until the late 90s.
At first glance, Sofia’s dreary communist-era buildings and Soviet Army monuments do little to set the pulse racing. Locals seem surprised that anyone would visit their city – the staff at my hotel assume I’m in town for the 36th World Rhythmic Gymnastics Championships like everyone else. Some speedy online research helps plug a gaping hole in my sporting knowledge and I’m soon telling anyone who’ll listen that things haven’t been the same since ribbon-twirling Bulgarian legend Maria Petrova retired.
