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One of 22 tents at the Capella Ubud, with a private pool overlooking the rainforest. Picture: Capella Ubud

Capella Ubud, a luxury tented retreat in Bali, set to the soundtrack of the jungle

  • The resort was named world’s best new hotel at the 2018 Ultra Travel Awards
  • Designed by Bill Bensley, each of the 22 tents is decorated according to a theme, but you might need help finding the ‘throne’

What is it? A luxury tented camp in the middle of the Balinese jungle (and when we say “jungle”, we mean jungle) a short drive up from Ubud, a town popular with tourists and yogis, and the Indonesian island’s arts and crafts centre. Capella Ubud was named best new hotel in the world in 2018 at the Ultra Travel Awards, in Dubai.

Tented? Yes, tents. Twenty-two of them, each designed according to a theme. The Photographer’s Tent, for instance, is decorated with vintage cameras and black-and-white photos of the island, while the Princess Tent pays homage to the refined accoutrements of Balinese royalty.

The good, bad and ugly sides to Bali

Sounds like a theme park. It’s not. Resort designer Bill Bensley was inspired by the first European settlers in Bali, who arrived in the 1800s. The decor represents an eclectic mix of mountain chalet, hunting lodge and traditional Balinese home. Even the toilets are Instagrammable.

What do you mean? Well, after we checked in and had the urge to relieve ourselves, we had to call reception to help us find the toilet in the bathroom. It turned out that the throne-like armchair in carved wood and black leather located next to the free-standing bathtub was, in fact, the “throne”. Talk about intelligent design.

Enough about the decor. What if we want to venture out? Ubud is a 20-minute drive away, and the resort provides shuttles. The town may be overrun with tourists and hippie expats but it’s worth at least half-a-day of anyone’s time, which can be spent in its souvenir shops, sipping coffee at one of its laid-back cafes or visiting the Monkey Forest.

The ‘throne’ toilet.

Been there, done that. What if I don’t want to leave the camp? Yoga and jungle boot camp are scheduled every day but for a more relaxing workout, just step out of the resort and take a walk among the surrounding paddy fields or down through a thickly forested valley that leads to the sacred Wos River. Before bed, guests gather around a campfire for a nighttime ritual of hot chocolate and marshmallows while watching films of Bali “back in the day”.

Bali also means a good massage. Can I get one? You certainly can. Like fellow properties in Singapore and Shanghai, this Capella comes with the brand’s signature Auriga spa, and treatments based on the lunar cycles. Looking for something revitalising? A New Moon massage is the one for you.

What about the food? Api Jiwa, the resort’s Asian barbecue eatery, has no menu: the chef creates dishes based on the carni­vorous preferences of his diners, omakase style. Mads Johansen Lange was one of the first European settlers of the island and it is after the Danish trader that the resort’s more traditional restaurant is named, where Indonesian and global fare is served up.

The camp fire, where guests can gather to watch films of Bali “back in the day”. Picture: Capella Ubud

Anything else I need to know before I book my trip? Yes, if you’re a light sleeper. While you might imagine that being in the middle of the rainforest would be peaceful, the jungle can be as noisy as the most crowded metropolis. As darkness descends, an incessant soundtrack strikes up, provided by amphibians, insects and all manner of wildlife, making it hard for some to fall asleep. Forget to ask for earplugs and you’ll experience the jungle orchestra at its loudest – and best.

Is it worth the splurge? Capella Ubud isn’t cheap. Tents start at US$838 plus 21 per cent tax and service charge per night during the low season and if you want more spacious quarters, the only two-bedroom lodge will set you back US$3,000 plus the extras per night.

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