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Life.Culture.Discovery.
Asia travel
PostMagTravel
Ed Peters

Brief Encounters | What to do in Galle, Sri Lanka – a laid-back long weekend destination

  • From crumbling colonial architecture to local fare like hoppers and sambal, the city on the southwest of India’s tear has much to offer visitors
  • Explore beyond the famous fort’s walls and go whale watching in nearby Mirissa

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Galle Fort, in the southern Sri Lankan city of Galle. Picture: Shutterstock
Never mind that Lonely Planet put Sri Lanka at the top of its 2019 list of “must-IGs”. Or that Galle – officially a city, but with the feel of a supersized village – has been lumbered with Unesco heritage status. Variously under the thumb of Dutch, Portuguese and British colonialists, it’s been a thriving little port since Ibn Battuta (the Arab world’s answer to Marco Polo) passed by in the 14th century.

Galle draws its zeitgeist from its seaside fort, whose coral-and-granite walls encircle many of the best hotels, shops, sights and eateries. No bureaucratic busybody has thought to besmirch its ramparts with health-and-safety railings, vegetable hawkers squawk their way about the streets, children’s poetry recitations waft beyond school walls: this isn’t some preserved-in-aspic – cliché alert – historical gem, but a living, breathing community.

Pick somewhere to stay among the neat grid of streets, step out of the front door each morning and the whole of the fort lies waiting – a one-stop experiential travel shop that’s grown up more or less of its own accord.

Where to stay

First choice for weary heads in Galle has to be a private villa, combining privacy, luxury and perhaps even a soupcon of well-earned lethargy. In the heart of the fort and dating from the 17th century, The Ambassador’s House serves up a generous helping of temptation – private chef, ditto pool, ditto rooftop garden – to go with its five en-suite bedrooms. May/June sees the lowest nightly rates: US$378, including breakfast.
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Hotel enthusiasts can take their pick of a dozen boutiques in the fort, headed by that grand dame, Amangalla. Staying at a stylish B&B costs a tenth of the Aman rate. In between, nights chez The Fort Printers (a mansion turned into a private hotel) start at US$160.

Where to shop

A colourful street in Galle Fort. Picture: Shutterstock
A colourful street in Galle Fort. Picture: Shutterstock
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Happy the visitor with a morning to spare, a hankering to peruse and a modest wad of rupees. Sprinkled here and there about the fort, seemingly more by accident than design, a score of ateliers display their wares with an attitude that tends more to museum than mall.

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