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Asia travel
LifestyleTravel & Leisure
Ed Peters

Brief Encounters | What to do in Ipoh – gateway to Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands is a relaxed city-break destination in its own right

  • From the city’s famed white coffee to addictive nasi ganja, gourmands will find much that pleases their palates
  • Still out of reach of globalisation, Ipoh’s charms lie in its laid-back authenticity and warm welcome

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Sunrise over the Malaysian city of Ipoh. Picture: Shutterstock
Always the bridesmaid, never quite the bride, Ipoh has long been an also-ran, overshadowed by more pushy Penang up north and more flashy Kuala Lumpur in the other direction, and seen as a mere stopover en route to the bucolic delights of the Cameron Highlands. All of which is excellent news for anyone who fancies somewhere that’s off the beaten track and utterly chill while putting the awe in authentic.

There’s no Angkor Wat or Great Wall to IG, simply a down-home Malaysian city that’s more like a large town, replete with excellent places to eat and relax, and Ipohites for whom courtesy is second nature. And no, it’s not vibrant.

Where to stay

The planet may be getting dunked by globalisation, but some corners have so far escaped its full force. There are no bland international hotels in Ipoh, and no exhilarating ones either. The home-grown choice is either nothing-to-WhatsApp-about high-rises, or rather more down-to-earth and characterful accommodation.

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Ipoh’s Airbnbs tend to be closeted in blocks of flats and decorated with sizeable party-minded groups in mind. Light sleepers should check Google Maps – the first call to prayer is scheduled well before dawn.

Where to shop

Ipoh market. Picture: Ed Peters
Ipoh market. Picture: Ed Peters
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Rather than a flea market, think of Memory Lane as an elaborate piece of outdoor theatre. Spreading out from Jalan Horley along alleyways and streets, it’s not so much Aladdin’s cave as the stuff he would have got rid of when he spring-cleaned. Junk, antiques and curios, pre-loved, second-hand or simply stuff with a capital S, it’s all here, with banter flying back and forth amid brisk bargaining sessions. The “tsunami” watch demo – ie, immersed in H2O to guarantee that it’s waterproof – is a sure-fire crowd-puller.

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