Brief EncountersWhat to do in Kathmandu – coffee, cuisine and Himalayan vistas on a short break to Nepal’s capital
- A casualty of civil war and natural disaster, the city is rising from its ruins to offer travellers a rich, rewarding experience
- Few travel guides do justice to hospitable, charming, easy-going citizens
The Man from Kathmandu may not be in the running for an Oscar (yet) but the recently released tale of a United States-based Nepali with Hindu and Muslim parents reconnecting with his roots – directed by Tibetan-American Pema Dhondup and featuring an international cast – is being screened in 50 countries around the world. It is the first time a Nepalese film has made such a global splash, and is another indication that Nepal is getting back on its feet following civil war, earthquake and other calamitous events.
Kathmandu’s historic backdrops play a large part in the film and reprise their role for travellers, too. Few guides to the Nepalese capital fail to mention the excellence of its food, shopping and hotels, but none of them do full justice to its hospitable, charming, easy-going, humorous, winsome, handsome – and just about any other positive adjective you can think of – citizens.
Where to stay
Today’s sometimes colourless international hotel magnates could learn a thing or two from Boris Lissanevitch, a White Russian ex-ballet dancer and ex-big game hunter who opened Kathmandu’s first international accommodation in 1951, the Hotel Royal. His legacy lives on via recipes for borscht and chicken Kiev served at The Chimney, in the former palace that is part of the Yak & Yeti, the city’s pre-eminent five-star that opened in the 1970s. Even more sexy as far as heritage goes, but about twice the price, at US$280 nightly, Dwarika’s Hotel grew out of one man’s (Dwarika Das Shrestha, natch) passion for preserving Kathmandu’s intricately carved wooden windows.
No dopes when it comes to algorithms, various hotels in the city have tacked “boutique” onto their names. To date, Dalai-La appears to be the only genuine article. Just down the road, there’s a very good reason the Kathmandu Guest House has been in business for more than 50 years.
Punters with a yen for crisp, clean and almost audibly brand-new digs can breathe a sigh of relief as the Marriott Kathmandu, hard by the former royal palace, is opening this summer.
Where to shop
