La Palma, one of Spain’s Canary Islands, lives up to its nickname, La Isla Bonita
- The most northwesterly island of the archipelago boasts pristine forests, jaw-dropping landscapes
- The capital, Santa Cruz, was once a bustling trade hub between Spain and the Americas
At the tourist information centre in Santa Cruz, an assistant presents me with a map and proudly explains that La Palma is the steepest island in the world. I ask if there are any dull stretches of road I can omit from my itinerary and she looks at me as if I’m mad.
“There are no boring roads here,” she says.
I ask whether the neighbouring island, El Hierro, is worth a visit. My guidebook describes a small but perfectly formed land mass of dramatic ravines, sheer coastal cliffs, rich forests and picturesque fishing villages.
“There’s nothing to do there,” she says, sniffily. Inter-island rivalries run deep in this corner of the North Atlantic, it seems.
Located off the coast of Africa, the seven Spanish-owned Canary Islands owe their existence to volcanic activity. Each has its own distinctive landscape, personality and, depending on the time of year, fan base. Retirees rule the roost during winter, families show up in the shoulder season, and the peak summer period attracts a young party crowd. Even then, the revellers stick to big resorts on Tenerife, Gran Canaria and Lanzarote. No one goes to La Palma for nightlife – except astronomers.