Brief Encounters | Get off the beaten track in Dili, East Timor – Asia’s youngest nation is unspoilt, although avoid the ‘dumps’
- Whale watchers, surfers and divers have long sung the country’s praises, extolling its many natural wonders
- Accommodation can leave something to be desired, but drink enough of its unique coffee and sleep might be off the cards anyway
The whale-watching season is about to start around East Timor, as pod after pod of the planet’s largest mammals migrate along the Wetar Strait, north of Asia’s youngest nation.
It’s a stunning sight, and just one of the natural wonders of this oft-bypassed sovereign state, which is still struggling to get back on its feet after a lengthy and bloody struggle for independence. Surfers, divers and snorkellers chant Timor’s praises, too. Coming here means escaping the tourist hordes while giving the economy a much-deserved boost. Dili is the capital and the most convenient base.
And there’s more: September 11 sees the start of the Tour de Timor: a five-day, 450km, refreshingly uncommercialised cycle race over punishing terrain that sends the Timorese into an ecstasy of excitement exceeded only by spectators at the Tour de France. It’s not just about the bikes; the end of each stage is marked with a mini carnival, celebrating the island’s culture.
Where to stay
Dili’s better hotels tend to eschew the trappings of luxury for simple, solid comfort. Also non-dumpish are the homestays run by Dili-ites: reckon on US$50 or less nightly, and the chance to both help out the local economy and take a grass-roots view of life here.
What to buy
Given the country’s economic straits, there’s never been a better reason to buy local. The most distinctive souvenirs are tais, a richly striped and patterned cloth, woven exclusively by women, that can be worn as a wraparound or used for decoration. They are more than just threads – tais were originally used as a medium of exchange and weaving them, rather than being a chore, is seen as a cultural, communal pastime.