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Taiwan
PostMagTravel
Mercedes Hutton

Destinations known | Mainland Chinese tourists are staying away from Taiwan, but the self-ruled island doesn’t seem to mind

  • Beijing’s ban on solo travellers to Taiwan likely to see visitor numbers fall by 700,000
  • Impact expected to be limited as the self-ruled island has started to focus on alternative markets, such as Thailand, Vietnam and India

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The black-sand beach of Dulan, a small town in southeast Taiwan, in September. Photo: Mercedes Hutton

On a recent trip to Taiwan, this writer travelled south from the laid-back capital, Taipei, to Dulan. The most remarkable thing about the town (population: 500) was not the wild waves, which decorated the expansive black sand beach with decaying tree trunks and innumerable smooth stones, nor the lush landscape bearing bounties of dragon fruit, bananas and papayas, but an almost complete lack of tourists. At a hostel staffed by travellers from Europe and South America who exchanged their bed-changing or beer-pouring abilities for board, the volunteers outnumbered the guests. It was glorious.

The self-ruled island has experienced a downturn in arrivals from what was its main source market, mainland China. Visitors from the Middle Kingdom are staying away, in part, because they have to. In July, Beijing announced that from August 1, it would stop issuing permits for independent travel to Taiwan. Any citizens from the 47 cities previously able to apply for solo visas who still wanted to set foot on Taiwanese soil would have to do so as part of a group tour. “In view of the current cross-strait situation, such visits will be temporarily restricted until further notice,” the Ministry of Culture and Tourism said in an online statement.
The restriction came several months ahead of Taiwan’s presidential elections, which will be held in January, and was largely seen as an attempt to ruin the re-election chances of incumbent President Tsai Ing-wen, whose Democratic Progressive Party’s nationalist agenda has not won it many fans in the mainland.
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Taiwanese President Tsai Ing-wen (centre) waves to the crowd during National Day celebrations in Taipei, Taiwan, on October 10. Photo: EPA
Taiwanese President Tsai Ing-wen (centre) waves to the crowd during National Day celebrations in Taipei, Taiwan, on October 10. Photo: EPA

Constraints on independent travel to the island, which China considers a wayward province awaiting reunification, were relaxed for Chinese nationals in 2011, when Taiwan was ruled by Ma Ying-jeou, of the Beijing-friendly Kuomintang party. The year 2015 saw 4.1 million mainland arrivals, constituting a significant proportion of Taiwan’s 10.4 million total visitors, according to Tourism Bureau data.

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However, Beijing limited group travel to Taiwan ahead of Tsai’s inauguration, in May 2016, and mainland visitor numbers have been in decline ever since. In spite of this, total international arrivals have slowly but steadily increased year on year, suggesting that Taiwan is not all that reliant on the mainland market to keep its tourism industry afloat.

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