Life.Culture.Discovery.

Sabah: the good, bad and ugly sides to the Malaysian state on the island of Borneo

Whether it’s snorkelling in translucent turquoise waters or hiking to the summit of Mount Kinabalu, Sabah has something for everyone

There are troubles in paradise, though, including deforestation and the risk of getting kidnapped by militants

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The peak of Mount Kinabalu, in Sabah, Malaysia, on the island of Borneo. Photo: Alamy

Published: 10:00am, 26 Oct 2019Updated: 9:50pm, 28 Oct 2019

The good

Borneo is enormous – 672 Hong Kongs would fit into the world’s third largest island – and is occupied by Indonesia, Brunei and Malaysia. The latter nation’s Sabah state accounts for a modest 10 per cent of the land mass but punches above its weight in tourist terms. The modern city of Kota Kinabalu serves as a gateway to ancient rainforest where ginger-haired orangutans swing through the tree tops; the highest mountain between the Himalayas and New Guinea soars skywards here; and divers discover an underwater treasure trove once described by celebrated ocean explorer Jacques Cousteau as an untouched piece of art.

Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre is a captivating place to begin a tour of the Land Below the Wind, as Sabah is known. The facility cares for young apes orphaned as a result of logging or that have been illegally caught and kept as pets. Visitors get to attend feeding sessions and watch as the “people of the forest” are taught the skills they’ll need to survive in the wild.

If you’d rather see orangutans and other animals in their natural habitat, consider a Kinabatangan River cruise. The dense rainforest canopy might hinder your ability to spot endangered proboscis monkeys, pygmy elephants, crocodiles and pythons but eagle-eyed guides know what they’re looking for.

According to a study by National Geographic, 10 sq km of Borneo rainforest supports a greater variety of flora and fauna than North America and Europe combined but conditions beneath the waves are equally biodiverse. Sipadan Island lies at the centre of the Coral Triangle, one of the world’s most extensive reef systems.

To limit human impact on the fragile environment, only 176 diving permits are issued per day. For those who prefer to swim and snorkel in translucent turquoise waters, the five islands that make up Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park are just 20 minutes by boat from Kota Kinabalu.