Skiing in the French Alps: the good, bad and ugly sides to a destination that was once the realm of the rich
- These days, the slopes offer something for everyone – from dog sledding to star gazing – to try and attract a younger clientele
- With under-25s representing only 14 per cent of skiers in France, the efforts are obviously not enough
The good
When it comes to skiing superlatives, the French Alps take some beating. La Plagne is the world’s most visited resort while Chamonix is home to both the world’s steepest ski run and the Aiguille du Midi cable car, which holds the record for the highest vertical ascent. Les Trois Vallées (The Three Valleys) is a group of interlinked resorts that make up the world’s largest alpine ski area, with 600km of slopes, 169 lifts and 3,000 instructors. And, after building up un énorme appétit, fill up on fish and chips at the Frog and Roastbeef, the highest pub in Europe, which, appropriately enough, is in Europe’s highest ski resort, Val Thorens.
Being the biggest and the best isn’t everything, of course, but it does mean the French Alps offer something for everyone, from rubber-legged beginners to off-piste pros. It’s not all about tearing down the mountain at breakneck speed, however. Destinations such as La Plagne are diversifying and now offer alternatives for non-skiers, including dog sledding, star gazing and tobogganing trips. There is also plenty of choice when it comes to après ski activities: Val d’Isère, Alpe d’Huez and Morzine are a good bet for after-dark distractions, with a wide variety of bars – many with live bands and resident DJs – nightclubs, outdoor ice rinks, snow parties and festivals.
Skiing has long been associated with health, wealth and glamour (ski scenes have featured in no fewer than seven James Bond films) and, like Hong Kong, the higher up the peak you go, the more exclusive things become. Courchevel boasts more Michelin-starred restaurants than any other ski resort in the world, lofty Val Thorens epitomises Alpine chic and the prices are as steep as the pistes in Méribel.
Generally speaking, high-altitude resorts stand the best chance of regular snowfall, which adds to their cachet – who doesn’t enjoy carving through freshly fallen powder surrounded by stunning scenery? But a skiing holiday no longer means having to take out a second mortgage to keep up with the glitterati. Budget airlines and property-sharing platforms, such as Airbnb, have made it easier to piece together competitively priced DIY packages.
Technology has changed the skiing experience significantly in recent years. Snow reports, weather forecasts, road conditions and accommodation availability are all a mouse click away. Advances in skis, boots, bindings and helmets have improved safety while cutting-edge snow-making systems ensure optimal conditions throughout the season and beyond.
The French Alps are enjoying a surge of popularity with a new clientele; winter-sports enthusiasts from countries as diverse as Russia, Turkey, Israel, Brazil and China are mastering moguls and snowplough turns. Visitors from established markets haven’t gone away, though. In fact, many veterans are now able to take advantage of free ski passes (over 75s pay nothing in Val Thorens, Courchevel, Méribel, Val d’Isere and Tignes, among others).