Seville: the good, bad and ugly sides to Spain’s sizzling southern city
- Fiestas, bullfighting, Unesco World Heritage sites and sunshine – there are more reasons than not to visit
- But stay away in July and August, when it turns into a frying pan so hot that even the locals leave
The good
Begin at the cathedral. The world’s largest Gothic building was constructed in the 15th century on the site of a great mosque. Originally a minaret from where the muezzin called the faithful to prayer, the Giralda, or bell tower, provides the best vantage point from which to appreciate the immensity of the cathedral and the shimmering Seville skyline. A few paces away, the Alcázar, or fortified royal palace, is the oldest of its kind still in use in Europe. Built by the Arabs during the Moorish invasion of Spain, it dates back to the 8th century. In 2015, the Alcázar gained global exposure after it was used as a location in the television series Game of Thrones.
Formerly the medieval Jewish quarter, the central neighbourhood of Santa Cruz is a postcard pretty Andalusian cliché of whitewashed buildings and narrow, shady streets. Balconies blossom and flamenco guitarists fine-tune their fingerwork in orange-scented plazas. Overlooking the River Guadalquivir, Seville’s Maestranza bullring is one of the oldest and most famous in Spain, and in fiesta season spectators emerge from horse-drawn carriages dressed to the nines.
A short walk away (a phrase the compact city should adopt as its slogan) is the Plaza de España. The extravagant renaissance arcade of brick and marble was built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929 and has served as a backdrop in several films, including Lawrence of Arabia (1962) and Star Wars: Attack of the Clones (2002).
Dinner is taken late in Seville – the Spanish ritual of bar hopping and snacking is approached with great gusto and many of the city’s estimated 4,000 tapas bars are conveniently clustered. The areas of La Macarena, El Arenal and Santa Cruz offer rich pickings for budding tapeadors. In the more atmospheric places, hams hang from the ceiling, sherry casks double as tables and the walls are stained nicotine yellow.
A plan to reduce the number of vehicles on city roads and create healthier, more habitable areas by reclaiming public spaces is due to be launched as part of the 2020 municipal budget. Seville Breathes (Respira Sevilla) is a joint European Union and local government initiative that will increase public transport and promote walking, cycling and ownership of electric cars. City chiefs have a good record on green issues – feedback from residents led to the implementation of 120km of cycling lanes and a bike-hire scheme.
Seville observes Semana Santa (Holy Week) with penance, pomp, processions and parties. Then, two weeks later, citizens let their hair down during the April Fair (April 26-May 2). Sultry señoritas in ruffled polka dot dresses flirt with handsome men on horseback, sherry flows like the Guadalquivir and everyone spends the nights stamping, clapping and twisting their wrists until they drop. The spring weather will be just about perfect, although, if you can’t wait another couple of months, it’s a pleasant 23 degrees Celsius at the time of writing.
The bad
In fact, now might be the best time to visit. Rooms are as scarce as sober Sevillanos during Semana Santa and the April Fair, and only a fool would book a trip for July or August. The city is known as the frying pan of Spain for good reason – even locals clear off to the coast as temperatures regularly rise above 40 degrees. If you have no choice but to visit at the height of summer, find a restaurant beside the Guadalquivir and hope for a cooling breeze.
Talking of long leisurely lunches, the Spanish tradition of siesta is alive and well and means many businesses close between 2pm and 5pm. Plan your day accordingly.
If you do manage to snag a (no doubt overpriced) room while the April Fair is on, bear in mind that it can feel like a party to which you’re not invited. Most canvas pavilions, or casetas, are for the exclusive use of businesses and trade associations, prominent local families and their guests. As an old Spanish saying goes, “Sevillanos are the first to invite you around to their house but they never tell you where they live.”
The fair takes place 30 minutes from the city, in the Los Remedios neighbourhood, which leaves the centre noticeably quieter, as many bars and restaurants there close during the festivities. Sightseeing attractions remain open but be sure to book “time-slot tickets” for the Alcázar and cathedral well in advance, otherwise you’ll find yourself queuing for ages in the hot sun. Violent crime is almost unheard of in the city but petty theft (pickpocketing, valuables stolen from cars) is rampant in the party season, and it goes without saying that incidents increase in crowded environments.
One landmark that is unlikely to make it onto the city’s list of Unesco World Heritage Sites any time soon is the Seville Tower. Completed in 2015 and described disparagingly as the “big lipstick”, the 40-storey eyesore wouldn’t look out of place in Hong Kong. This is Seville, however, where the only other “skyscraper” is the 12th century Giralda.
Despite dominating city vistas, the Seville Tower doesn’t appear on postcards or marketing images. It is also mysteriously absent from “Seville skyline” online image search results, thanks to careful photographic composition. TripAdvisor contributors certainly aren’t impressed: “Totally out of place and, even out of context, simply an ugly building. This needs to be knocked down.” And a scathing Spanish review under the heading “Horroroso” asks why Unesco didn’t do more to stop construction.
The ugly
Last August, Spain suffered its largest ever outbreak of listeria. The food-borne bacterial illness, which killed three and infected at least 222, was linked to pork products from a Seville-based firm. There were fears foreign tourists may have been exposed, with the World Health Organisation noting that the incubation period for listeria infection can be up to 70 days.
Outbreak. Infection. Incubation. Sound familiar?
