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Fiesole in Italy: escape Florence’s tourist crowds in tranquil Tuscan town that has long inspired authors and artists

  • Just 5km from Florence, verdant Fiesole, haunt of Dante, Charles Dickens and more, has handsome villas, historic buildings and hotels that preserve their pasts

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The Villa San Michele, a Belmond Hotel, in Fiesole, a town near Florence in Tuscany, Italy that offers an escape from the city’s tourist crowds and has long been a draw for authors as varied as Dante, Gertrude Stein and Charles Dickens. Photo: Victoria Burrows
Victoria Burrows

On the forested slopes below the Italian town of Fiesole, Lucy Honeychurch, the heroine of E.M. Forster’s 1908 novel A Room with a View, stumbles into a clearing bright with violets.

George Emerson, who had been quietly admiring the view before her intrusion, is so overwhelmed – “he saw radiant joy in her face, he saw the flowers beat against her dress in blue waves” – that he throws social propriety to the wind and kisses her.

This Tuscan scene is pivotal in the stuttering romance between George and Lucy, a relationship George’s father hopes will ease his son’s brooding anxieties.

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Emerson Snr urges Lucy to assist George through his inner conflicts to a sense of peace and joy; in what is surely one of the great lines of modern literature he says: “Make him realise that by the side of the everlasting Why there is a Yes – a transitory Yes if you like, but a Yes.”

Fiesole’s Roman Theatre. Photo: Shutterstock
Fiesole’s Roman Theatre. Photo: Shutterstock

This is not the only literary appeal for the affirmative that has echoed through the air of Fiesole, whether in the imaginary spring breezes of a book or the still heat of a real-life summer.

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In the same year that Forster’s classic was published, American writer and feminist icon Gertrude Stein climbed a hill above Fiesole with Alice Toklas, who was also holidaying in Tuscany for the summer.

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