The original structure was demolished in 2012 because of safety concerns, but the hotel was rebuilt on the same spot with the same iconic facade, and reopened under the MGallery brand in 2022.

The soul and legacy of the old Admiral hotel live on: the new building has the same look and aesthetics as the original, and the same eight floors – a decision made to recognise its achievement as having been the tallest building in the country.

Among the historical buildings in Intramuros is Manila Cathedral, the country’s first.

Next to Intramuros, Rizal Park is named after celebrated national hero José Rizal, whose writings inspired the Philippine Revolution of 1896 to 1898.

Here, a national flag flies from the tallest flagpole in the country, guarded at all times by two soldiers in uniform, despite the sizzling heat.

Dozens of other national heroes who resisted colonial oppression are remembered in bronze busts throughout the park.

What is the hotel like?

The first thing that grabs the attention of arriving guests is the white 1951 Buick Super Eight parked outside. The car is not just for decoration; guests can book it for a tour of the city.

Getting in and nestling down into the bouncy, spacious, sofa-like seats is like being transported back in time. And be prepared for the stares or occasional thumbs-up from pedestrians as you cruise the streets of Intramuros.

The three hotel staff qualified to drive the car are adept at graceful parallel parking while explaining the historical significance of the buildings they are stopping in front of.

The best of the hotel’s 123 rooms face the bay, a natural harbour that has been the centre of Philippine trade for centuries.

Bay-facing rooms come with views of the boats moored at the Manila Yacht Club, to the left, and Roxas Boulevard, along which the traffic never stops. The pace is much more leisurely along the waterfront promenade.

Sunsets can be best enjoyed at the rooftop bar, where, even on cloudy days, the light playing off the bay can be spectacular. Also visible from this vantage point is the Ferris wheel at the Mall of Asia, one of the biggest shopping complexes in the Philippines.

What about food and drink?

The Admiral Club, on the rooftop floor, serves a variety of buffets – primarily Filipino, Chinese and Indian cuisines – for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Many of those who pop in for lunch come from nearby office blocks.

There is a Chinese-themed speakeasy in the basement, called Ruby Wong’s Godown. Although the dim sum served here may not be especially appealing to visitors from Hong Kong, the cocktails might be.

Try Ruby’s Rehab, a rum-based concoction that includes calamancello – a local interpretation of limoncello, using calamansi. The seven-year-old Don Papa Rum the bar uses is made at a distillery at the foot of an active volcano on Negros Island, near Cebu.

Anything else worth noting?

On display in the lobby is an old admiral’s jacket – which is fitting given the name of the hotel. The jacket has apparently inspired some of the staff uniforms.

The hotel also has a spa.

What does a stay cost?

Deluxe rooms with a city view start at US$180 per night. Executive suites, which come with access to the club lounge and bay views, start at US$411.